I thought the timing of our trip into South Sudan would prove to be interesting, as it followed, by a few weeks, the withdrawal of South Sudan from the unity government of the North and South (GNU). It has been a fragile peace since the signing of the CPA (Comprehensive Peace Agreement) in 2005. This pull-out signaled what everybody already knows…that the agreement is rife with unfulfilled promises and disregard for what was accorded. The South cited exactly that, namely accusing the North for failures on points relating to troop deployment, contradictions over border areas and oil. Okay, without trying to make this a news/commentary piece, as we flew into Juba at the beginning of our trip, I couldn’t help but think about these current events, while wondering what changes I would see that have been brought about over the span of the last two years since I’ve been away.

Here is the route we flew, stopping in Juba for two nights for several meetings, before continuing on, via Rumbek, to our program base in Malakal, in Upper Nile state.

During the course of the war, Juba, though deep in the south (a scant 125km / 75mi from the Ugandan border), had been held mostly by the Northern government. My first trips to Juba, shortly before and then following the CPA, I found myself in a “sleepy” town with tired soldiers playing checkers on the rusted remnants of war in the dusty, empty streets. There were only a handful of functioning vehicles and absolutely no signs of recently built infrastructure. I had even, on one occasion, been escorted through the VIP section of the airport and had a meeting with the governor. That would hardly be possible anymore. Juba is now overrun by hordes of newly purchased 4×4s, those of the government (flashy Prados sporting the GOSS license plates as the government has deeper coffers now following the implementation of peace), of international organizations (both for-profit companies with large construction contracts, commercial interests, etc., and those with humanitarian persuasions interested in supporting the rehabilitation and reconstruction efforts), of foreign governments (who are establishing consulates and donor liaison offices to oversee their large sums being doled out) and those of the innumerable local businesspersons who are capitalizing on meeting the needs of all those mentioned above. Dust and/or mud and ruts still define the road network, though buildings are being built in every space available…and rent is through the roof! Back when I was there last, a very spacious compound in a central part of town could be taken for virtually nothing; now it goes for thousands…and thousands of dollars. Also, when I was there last, excitement for the future was in the air, hope was high, but nothing had yet changed. Now, at least in Juba, there is a busy-ness everywhere and money flows like water…but I’m still not quite sure what real changes have been made.

I can see how frustrated and disillusioned one could become with “peace” in Sudan if one were only posted in Juba and have to see and deal with this on a daily basis. Fortunately, we were shortly on our way to Upper Nile to see some things that were actually being accomplished.
I read a recent article referencing some insightful comments from local Juba residents; I noticed some truth in a statement: “Yet, for all the hardships southerners say they are happy; they are surviving more on the glories of the historical peace agreement with the north rather than on any material gains from it as yet.” That’s one view.

I couldn’t help but notice the differences between the Juba I saw just a couple years ago, and the one that exists today. I think much also remains the same, but there are many façades propped up by the presence of $ to veil that fact.

As I sat on the bank of the Nile during my first evening back in Juba, a few words popped into my head (yes, the clichés are intentional…I saw nothing original happening in Juba):

visions of grandeur
visions blurred

pieces of the past
peace in pieces?

dust in the eyes
dust kicked up by the winds of change
shifting winds, crosswinds

today. yesterday’s tomorrow
turned upside down
ride the wave
grab what you can

food for work for free
in days gone by

pay your pretty penny now

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